I have decided to create a runway inspired look for my timed assessment. Francois although not particularly being involved in runway or fashion since selling is company has always returned for good friend and designer Marc Jacobs shows. I have decided to look at Marc Jacobs recent catwalk collection as inspiration for this look. Although the hair and makeup was already envisioned in the way it was created for the show, created a rule breaking look done with completely no makeup at all, the look was created with NARS's skin care range. Hair was kept natural and structural within this shaggy bob style. I won't be taking any reference from the makeup or hair just looking at the collection as inspiration for my final look that i will create within my timed assesment.
The image below is the look created for the Marc Jacobs s/s15 ready to wear runway show, no makeup was used this was an iconic moment in fashion as although no makeup makeup is a huge statement to the spring summer runways Francois Nars took this literally by using completely no makeup at all. Although the face is fresh clean and minimalistic the shaggy dark box fridge adds interest to the overall look.
Marc Jacobs S/S15: Ready To Wear
The collection has a clear military reference, the military greens, browns and navy blues , oversize buttons, lapels and belted jackets have a strong reference to military with a twist using luxurious materials such as high shine satins giving it a couture meets utilitarian approach. The colours within the collection is something i am instantly drawn to the earthy tones contrasted against the soft purple backdrop and runway captures me. The femininity within the silhouette of the collection i future want to touch on the pulled in waist and aline skirts creates a exaggerated of the hips giving a feminine shape.
I love the textures and colours within the accessories of this collection. The plum satin backpacks with the matt button contrast i love, Marc Jacobs plays with texture and colour off one another and intern creates unique and admirable garments and acessorise.
Makeup
I have created a mood board based on my initial reaction to how i would create this makeup look and When thinking about the kind of makeup i would create for this collection i look back at the images and was instantly drawn to the use of colour. The natural plums and greens reminded me of nature
an organic feel to the colours. NARS plays on colour i want to bring this idea within the final look, contrasting the green and plum colour palettes. Further i wanted to pick up on the textures used within the Marc Jacobs collection i love the matt buttons used on both the bags and jackets, i have looked at matt lips using this subtle diffused plum tone contrasting this with a fresh dewy skin texture mirroring the satin textures of the collection.
Face Charts
I have created some initial face charts based on my mood board above, i wanted to create a matt look using the organic green Karachi tones within the eye look and a diffused plum lip tone. below i have used similar colour the first with a slightly lighters softer eye than the second.
I didn't feel that the shade i used was the correct colour i then started playing around with effects on the face chart image. Here i have been able to create more of the colour tones i would like to use within my timed assessment look, further compared to the collection images the colour tones mirror the ones in these images.
Products: (Face Chart 1 & 2)
Complexion
-Moisturiser
-Illamasqua illuminous primer
-MAC face and body- C1
-MAC conceal and correct pallet/Light- NC15 & Pale yellow
-Rimmel Wake me up Concealer
-MAC Mineralize concealer- NC20
Face
-Illamasqua translucent powder
-MAC pigment- Naked
-Bare Minerals Luminizer- The Love Affair
-Naked Neutrals Pallet- Venus
-Dior Bronzer- 002
-NARS blusher- Orgasm
Brows
-Sleek brow pallet
-Rimmel gel fixer in dark
Eyes:
-MAC Omega
-Krolyan D10
-Naked 2 Palet- Pistol, Blackout
-Naked Basics- Faint, Crave
-MAC studio fix lash- Black
Lip:
MAC- Diva & Heroine
Experiments
I wanted to play with the colours i had used in my face charts as on the skin the tone of the colour is a lot different. I did think that on the face charts the green tone was not right and had more brown, golden tones in it were as when i applied the Kryolan D10 on my eye with a large blending brush i loved the colour and effect i achieved. To create the lip i mixed together MAC diva and heroine patting on my lip and using a translucent powder over the top to take out any shine. I think this is really effective both individually and with the texture and tone of the eye.
I then added over the top a darker shade of green to test the second face chart, i feel that it instantly took away the soft, matt feel of the Karachi eye tone as created above, the dark green creates a dense texture to the eye that i don't think is as effective.
Final Face Charts
I have created a final chart based on my experimentation, again although the colour tones look very different this is due to the way they sit on paper compared to the skin. I have added the NARS orgasm blush the iconic shade is a perfect match to the plums of the lip. I want to keep the brows very natural adding a small amount of product to thicken the ends and brushed then out. (Brushed out brows have been a popular trend for S/S15 runway shows.) Contrasting the skin with the matt texture of the rest of the look i want to create a fresh, dewy feel to the skin using highlighters and a sheer finish foundation such as MAC face and body.
Products:
Complexion
-Moisturiser
-Illamasqua illuminous
primer
-MAC face and body- C1
-MAC conceal and correct
pallet/Light- NC15 & Pale yellow
-Rimmel Wake me up
Concealer
-MAC Mineralize concealer-
NC20
Face
-Illamasqua translucent
powder
-MAC pigment- Naked
-Bare Minerals Luminizer- The
Love Affair
-Naked Neutrals Pallet-
Venus
-Dior Bronzer- 002
-NARS blusher-
Orgasm
Brows
-Sleek brow pallet
-Rimmel gel fixer in
dark
Eyes:
-MAC Omega
-Krolyan D10
-Naked 2 Palet- Pistol,
Blackout
-Naked Basics- Faint, Crave
-MAC studio fix lash- Black
Lip:
MAC- Diva & Heroine
Instructions
Step 1:Prep the face with a cleanse,
tone and moisturiser satin primer. Foundation mac face and body mixed with
satin primer again buffed all over the face and chest. Concealer under the eye
area and any areas that need more coverage, keeping the look dewy and light
(very natural glow)
Step 2: Apply translucent
powder over oily points (if any) use mac hightlighter over the high points of
the face (brow bones, eyes, nose, cheek bones, top lip and temples) and again
with the NAKED pallet in Venus. Contour to add depth with DIOR underneath the
cheekbones and dusting onto the forehead- very natural tone.
Step 3: Apply Krolyan D10 all
over the eye and buff in and out in the corners and crease apply NAKED faint to
add definition and apply this also underneath the eye close to the lash line.
Curl lashes apply mascara and then with NAKED crave and blackout line the top
and bottom lid and fade out to add further definition.
Step 4: Brush brows up to
give a natural shape and define softly with NAKED faint, apply brow gel to hold
in place.
Step 5: Apply a mix of MAC
Diva and Heroine patted gently onto the lip more dense in the center.
Step 6: apply NARS orgasm
over the cheekbones to add a slightly gentle colour.
Hair
Having been heavily inspired by Stella McCartney's runway hair combining a mix of textures again much like within my makeup look i wanted to take the idea of mixing sleek, smooth hair with more of an interest by adding texture or a plait to the style, in my board i have looked at types of plaits, twists and how adding a textural element into a classic style can transform the look. I have decided to look more to plaits as i future feel this goes with the military, S/S15 theme. The quick and wearable nature of plaits is interesting to play within creating styles that are the opposite.
While looking through the fashion week images i found this image of Sofia Riche, i love the contrast in this style using the cornrow plaits in contrast with the sleek style of the rest of the look its a very similar look to the one i had envisioned.
Hair Experiments
I wanted to experiment testing out the ideas i had so i could visualise what style worked with my initial ideas from my mood board, i have chose to create the interest of a deep side parted sleek straight down style, similarly to the image above. I have tested out a range of different plaits and variations giving me an idea of what works and what doesn't.
Dutch Braid: This style is very similar to the one pictured above the corn row style dutch braids, although this is effective in the image of Sofia i think there would have to be either more of the plaits or more chunkier plaits to make an impact.
Knot Plait: A style lernt in class i love how effective it looks against the sleek style.
French Plait into Fish Tail: I initially create a french plait finishing it off into a fish tail i like the two different types of plaits in one but would have to find a way to secure the end so i wouldn't distract from the sleek style.
Dutch into Five Braid Plait: Again testing out two different types of plaits in one style i prefer the effect of the dutch and think that the colour of the lighter 5 braid plaits is effective.
I feel that after my experiment ion i have a clear idea of what i want to achieve with the style i was a clear contrast but in keeping with the slick style of the rest of the hair. The knot plait i feel was the most effective the raised element within this plait is what i feel works within the style, it elevates its self almost above the sleek style creating depth to the look. Further more this style is easier to tuck under than the plaits into other plaits as with the knot braid i can easterly tie it off with a band blending it into the style.
Hair Chart
This is my final hair chart created from my experimentation images, i want a sleek smooth and elegant style contrasted with the raised knot plait with more of a contrasting messier texture. I want the knot plait to be obviously textured, with this plait the hair naturally creates this texture i want to exaggerate the messiness to create more of a contrast between the plait and sleek style.
Hair Chart
This is my final hair chart created from my experimentation images, i want a sleek smooth and elegant style contrasted with the raised knot plait with more of a contrasting messier texture. I want the knot plait to be obviously textured, with this plait the hair naturally creates this texture i want to exaggerate the messiness to create more of a contrast between the plait and sleek style.
Equipment:
Hair dryer
Straighteners
Clear elastic Bands
Pins- blonde
bun pins- blonde
pin tail comb
penman brush
paddle brush
soft brush
Products:
Serum
Shine Spray
Mouse
Hair spray
Dry shampoo
Instructions
Preparation:
Wash and roughly dry hair
till 10% of water is left, apply serum and in small sections starting from the
bottom using the paddle brush and hair dryer with nossel pointing down blow dry
there hair flat in correct deep side parting. When completely dry run over hair
with straighteners.
Assessment:
Section hair from behind the
ear to the crown line and clip the rest out of the way being careful not to
disrupt the sleek style already created. Knot plait (take section split into
two and knot repeat again on next knot take section before and knot in and
repeat) this using small sections and pulling tight to the head apply dry
shampoo if hair is too silky when reach the back of the ear tie of with a clear
elastic band.
Using mouse on a thin tooth
brush comb back and down behind each ear sleek and tight to the head and again
at the back- finish off with hair spray and perfect fly aways and ends.
Final Images
Assessment images.
I was very please with the overall outcome of the look. I felt that the combination in texture and colour is very representative of NARS yet explored through my design process fits with the Marc Jacobs S/S15 runway show. I felt that my timed assessment went well i didn't use all the time given as it was quite a simple look to create this meant i had time to go back over and really perfect the look.
My favourite element of the look was the hair i thought that it was simple yet very effective the knot plait worked well and combined the varying texture that i wanted between the sleek style.
The eyes and lip within the makeup look were susses full, i liked the way the neutral skin texture gave a fresh feel to the matt features giving it a youthful feel.
I feel that i have approached my timed assessment with a fresh outlook as i was able to give myself my own breif in terms of what look i would create. I was able to take referance from Marc Jacobs collection using this as my key inspiration point, by developing this i was able to go on my own creative design process while keeping NARS's ethos and aims in mind. I created a finished look that was runway appropriate yet portrays NARS as a brand through the use of colour, luxury elegant feel of the hair and enhancement of natural strong beauty.
Further Images
I decided to take some more images in the studio front of the natural day light i found that this gave me better lighting for the makeup and i was able to take some more images that captured this. I have also played around with positioning of the model and composition more.
References/Image References:
Vogue UK, (2015). Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2015 Ready-To-Wear. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs [Accessed 23 Apr. 2015].
Vogue UK, (2015). Not used. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/marc-jacobs [Accessed 23 Apr. 2015].
Uk.pinterest.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/assessment-nars/ [Accessed 23 Apr. 2015].
