Friday, 30 January 2015

Catwalk Designers & Trends S/S15 Fitting With NARS

Trends/ Prints & Patterns
I wanted to explore key trends from the s/s15 catwalks that i felt matched my brand NARS i chose the two below as a starting point i feel that they mirror the minimilistic element of Nars as a Brand the pop of colour within the cut out paper floral prints is symbolic of Nars association with colour portraying a fun,playful side. I feel the feminine sports trend is also relavent to the brand it explores the ethos that Nars is a lifestyle brand its practical but stylish much like this sports trend.

Cut Paper: Matisse-inspired flat colour and simple, modernist shapes have a paper cutout feel that lends itself perfectly to oversized florals, minimalist graphic palms and abstract patterns. Combinations of black and white with minimal colour pops offer a sophisticated graphic approach.
Giulietta s/s15 & Adeam s/s 15  

Feminine Sports- Graphic sportswear continues to influence the catwalks with active stripes, boxed type and oversized varsity typography on feminine silhouettes, bringing elegance to sports styling for next summer. 

Topshop Unique s/s15 & Lacoste s/s15 

Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2015 Ready to Wear Collection.

I have chosen Alexander Wangs s/s 15 collection having identified that i wanted a collection that depicted Colour, Graphic shapes, simplicity,practicality and sex appeal i feel this collection has it all. From the graphic patterns to the minimalistic styles and use of colour from black and white with a pop of primary colour to the clever use of colour in pattern to add depth further using feminine styles and shapes within the clothes such as the structure of the skirts or flow to the dresses added the femininity and sex appeal.


Alexander Wang's interview for stylist magazine he talked about his collection athletic street vibe, alexander himself always wearing sneakers he wanted to bring this into the collection but in a more romantic way. He was influenced by Madame Gres a haute couture fashion house in the 20th century she was known for her structural pleating detailed dresses she was known to be a true sculpture of fabric he takes this inspiration this is visible within the structure of the collection but further in the pattern details the fading and development of the patterns as shown in the images below.
Alexander Wang-
'Everyone in fashion knows Madame Gres referance and understands it but how you can really take it and re interpret it into your own language its something you need to build to be able to go back an reference its great timing for me to bring these references (Madame Gres) into the collection.'
Further throughout the interview the hair, makeup and staging team talk about the futuristic athletics vibes Alexander wanted speed to be portrayed such as the sleek back hair pony styles.



Alexander Wang's collection is innovative, futuristic and romantic he explores old with the new in a captivating way from the clothing to the accessorise and shoes. This i feel fits with NARS as Francois further it inspired by the old but constantly creating new and exciting products and ad campaigns.

Makeup 

I began looking at makeup trends from paris, milan, NewYork and London s/s15 fashion weeks on WGSN i picked the two looks i felt expressed the NARS ethos. 

Graphic Liner-Bold eyeliner curves under the eye or in unexpected areas, such as above the crease line for a graphic look. Wing-tips and bright colours, including white and bright blue, stand out against flawless bases. The look is paired with thick, perfectly groomed brows.
I feel these graphic liner looks created express the playful, experimentative and rule breaking colourful ethos of NARS teamed with the natural brows and clean flawless base can be associated to the every day woman.
 Fendi s/s15 & Maxamara s/s15 

Ellie Sab s/s15 By Tom Pecheux & Rothko Painting 

“Once again, the focus is all on the eyes. We drew inspiration for this blue/green eye from a Rothko painting.”
-Tom Pecheux
http://arabia.style.com/beauty/backstage-confidential/fashion-shows-beauty-review-elie-saab-paris-fashion-week-fall-2014-rtw/

Dewy Glow-Highlighter is used to sculpt the face, creating a high-cheekbone effect. Illuminator is placed on the temples and the highest point of the cheekbones to create luminous glow. The focus is on radiant skin, with the rest of the face kept natural. 
chose this trend as i feel NARS is all about enhancing women's natural beauty while having fun this luminous summer glow is all about letting the natural skin show through and adding a an extra sparkle the look is ver sleek something associated with the brand.


Versace s/s15 & Lavin s/s15 By Pat McGrath 

Hair 

Long hair falls over the shoulders in soft waves with straight partings or sweeps over from a deep-side parting for a faux-fringe look. Hair shines with a healthy glow and looks glamorous in a sleek texture.
Nars is all about being sexy and embracing natural beauty is a fun way i feel these soft waves express this.
Emilio Pucci s/s15 By Orlando Pitta & Tom Ford s/s15 By Sam McKnight

Classic buns and ponytails were updated with interesting shapes to create eyecatching sculptural shapes. Ponytails were folded in half and heavily gelled for a Samurai warrior look, while twisted knots created a fun and playful look in rows of four that ran down from the top to the back of the head. 
I have chosen this playful up do trend as again it has the playful experimentative feel to the style the structural element within the ponytails conveys a sleek glam feel.

Giles s/s15 By Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck & Carolina Herrera s/s15 
Alexander Wang s/s15 & …...
Nails

Timeless Red-On the s/s15 catwalks red nails were seeing a lot ranging from classic reds in Olympia Le Tan to coral reds in Bora Aksu.
I have chosen this as its sexy, classic and timeless. NARS loves its pop of colour and a tone like red shows the sexy feminine side.



References: 
WGSN Fashion Trend Forecasting and Analysis, (2015). Login - WGSN Fashion Trend Forecasting and Analysis. [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/home/ [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Vogue, (2015). spring summer 2015 ready to wear. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/alexander-wang [Accessed 30 Jan. 2015].
style.com, (2015). Alexander Wang Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear - Collection - Gallery - Style.com. [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang/collection/6 [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
fourframe, (2014). Giulietta SS15 Fashion Show, New York. [online] Available at: http://www.fourframe.co/giulietta-ss15/ [Accessed 3 Feb. 2015].
Vogue.com, (2014). Madame Grès - Search - Vogue. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/?s=Madame+Grès [Accessed 1 Jan. 2015].
Thefashionhistorian.com, (2011). The Fashion Historian: Madame Grès. [online] Available at: http://www.thefashionhistorian.com/2011/08/madame-gres.html [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Anon, (2015). [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLYfZCX7RSY [Accessed 1 Jan. 2015].
Style.com/Arabia, P. (2014). Paris Fashion Week Fall 2014 RTW - Elie Saab | Style.com/Arabia. [online] Arabia.style.com. Available at: http://arabia.style.com/beauty/backstage-confidential/fashion-shows-beauty-review-elie-saab-paris-fashion-week-fall-2014-rtw/ [Accessed 4 Feb. 2015].
Vogue UK, (2015). Spring/Summer 2015: Backstage Beauty. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/09/08/spring-summer-2015-hair-beauty-backstage-photos/gallery/1245607 [Accessed 3 Feb. 2015].
Fashionisers.com, (2014). Spring/ Summer 2015 Nail Trends | Fashionisers. [online] Available at: http://www.fashionisers.com/trends/spring-summer-2015-nail-trends/ [Accessed 4 Feb. 2015].

Images:
Seen.co, (2015). Browse 128 photos, videos and tweets about coming soon, #model #clothing #woma at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week SS15 Day 4 (#nyfw, #nyfw2014, #mbfw, #nyfwss15), on Seen. [online] Available at: http://seen.co/event/mercedes-benz-fashion-week-ss15-day-4--2014-301/highlight/134415 [Accessed 2 Feb. 2015].
Style.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/topshop-unique [Accessed 3 Feb. 2015].
Vogue UK, (2015). Spring/Summer 2015: Backstage Beauty. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/09/08/spring-summer-2015-hair-beauty-backstage-photos/gallery/1245607 [Accessed 3 Feb. 2015].
Fashionisers.com, (2014). Spring/ Summer 2015 Nail Trends | Fashionisers. [online] Available at: http://www.fashionisers.com/trends/spring-summer-2015-nail-trends/ [Accessed 3 Feb. 2015].

Brands-Trends:Lecture

In todays lecture we looked at Brands, collections, Creative directors of these brands companies, MUA's and Trends for Spring/Summer 2015.

Creative Directors look at the makeup collections and design the texture, packaging,colour ranges, holiday collections and create the looks for the catwalks. They are inspired by current happenings in politics, economics and the world around them. They have to constantly been looking to the catwalk and designers trend forecasting what looks will be popular and watering these down for the collections in the makeup stores for collection we buy.

Peter Philips one of the big creative directors of the industry working with Chanel and now the creative director of Dior he inspired many looks that are being re done and inspiring creatives in the industry today.

Economic desperation has never hit beauty sales, biggest sellers through these times are lipsticks and nail varnishes. Industry still waiting for the dip, its yet to come!

Pat McGrath the mother of Makeup artists and creative director for many of fashion weeks designer looks. Her passion, creativity and engagement to produce a designer vision is whats pushed her to the top of her game.

Trends Spring Summer 2015
I have added images of my favorite looks from these catwalk trends.

Hyper Real Beauty 
Natural, Minimal, Real
-Marc Jacobs
-Lavin
-Valentino
























-Ci Valli
-Isabel Marrant
-Stella McCartney

Alternative Cat Eyeliner 
-Fendi
-Celine 'Quick Gesture'
-Givenchy 'Look angry' Bleached Brows
























-Prada
-Maxmara
-Dior

Perfect Smoke 
-Gucci
-Tom ford
-Giles 'inverted smokey'
-Chanel
-Dian Von Furstenberg
-McQueen 'very powerful,allows you to see the beauty of every girl'
















Purple Gaze
-Vera Wang



















-Derek Lam

Texturize Me
-Stella McCartney



















-Giambattista Valli Hair by Orlando Pitta
-Topshop Unique by Anthony Turner

References: 
 Spring/Summer trends- Mycourse


File

Thursday, 29 January 2015

Product, Price Point & Stores.

Packaging 

Nars is well known for there sleek,professional, practical and most of all minimalist packaging created by Fabien Baron known as a modern design icon. I admire the simplicity of the design it looks professional and fashionable at the same time. The graphics within the Nars brand logo further emulates this feel. This packaging can make the everyday woman feel like they too are gaining a product thats professional that even they can use. 

''NARS packaging looks beautiful and feels good, all part of François’ belief that his products should be experienced on all levels. The packaging of NARS Cosmetics and NARSskin is as classic, modern, luxurious and chic as the product it houses. Created by design genius Fabien Baron, NARS Cosmetics’ sleek black soft touch casing has become a design icon, the ultimate union of aesthetics and function. Custom designed by Fabien and committed to reflect the simple, elegant, clean lines that François loves.''

Product

''full spectrum of classic and fashion colors and innovative products from which they can build their makeup wardrobe and express their individual styles. Wearable, translucent, concentrated color allows women to experiment with a full range of hues, each compressed to reach maximum density creating the rich, intense shades imagined by François.''

NARS are known for the naming of there products. Provocative names like "Orgasm," "Deep Throat," "Striptease," and "Sex Machine." In addition, some NARS product shades are named after geographic locations and films that have inspired Francois such as "Iceland," "Kalahari," and "Kuala Lumpur''.
NARS "Orgasm" blush is one of the company's best-selling products, being Best of Sephora's Best Blush for 2006, 2007 and 2008 the cult classic as they call it. They have developed an entire "Orgasm Collection," including blush, lipgloss, multiples, illuminators, and even nail polish.


''Orgasm'' collection NARS.










Above are some Cult Classic features on NARS.com website, the orgasm range is one of the top sellers for the brand along with the NARS sheer glow foundation top on many beauty blogger's lists and a must have for the spring/summer. 

The Products are known for the quality and long lasting abilities of there products. Foundations, blushers and lip shades have often featured at top must haves of the season making Nars a brand that you know you pay the money for a good quality and durable product. I have looked at the award winning products from 2014 beauty awards to give me a better idea of what the best products are.

Allure Best of Beauty 2014 

Allure best of beauty is renowned in the beauty cosmetics industry, the stamp of approval can be the difference between buying a brands product or another brands. The top picks were the Dual intensity eye shadows the intense pigments within these shadows make it a must have product to create the simplest day eye to a smokey evening look, Audacious lipstick the bright red lip shade is a classic shade from nars expressing there brands abilities to play with colour, sexiness and style, finally their Radiant cream compact, natural finish with a refillable compact makes this a staple and economical makeup bag item.

Cosmopolitan Beauty Awards 2014 














This innovative products created by Francois is a go to multi purpose stick for both eyes, cheeks, lips and body the creamy product and sheer colour blends effortlessly to create a glow on all skin tones.

Price Point


The pricing of NARS good quality products. Highest price of £60 for restorative night treatment face cream to the lowest price of a £16 lip liner pencil with an average price point of around £30. 
This is very reasonable particularly in relation to the professional quality of the products and sets the brand in the high mid and high end between mid range beauty brands and higher end brands with an average price point of £45. 
Although the price point is worth the high quality of the product it dose not have that go to attitude related to other brands such as MAC (example mainstream brand) , this is because the price is a little more upmarket for instance a MAC lipstick prices at £15.50 were as NARS at £20-£24 this is an example of how the average women wouldn't pop and get a top up of her favourite shade of a £24 lipstick unlike MAC that is a lot more affordable for a similarly related product. 
This is however unlike there foundations the famous and blogger raved about sheer glow from NARS is £31 in relation to a MAC or Lancome foundation that range between £21-£30 a similar price range here indicated that for the quality you are getting a better quality professional product from NARS. 
NARS is a higher end brand although the price point is variable and more expensive than most cosmetic brands the quality of both the product and packaging is a taste of luxury therefore i feel that your getting the most from your money. 


Stores

NARS has many stores across the globe in USA, UK,Turkey, Switzerland, Sweden,Spain,Russia, Puerto Rico, Italy, Iran, France & Czech republic. Both stand alone boutiques and in department stores in the UK you can find NARS in John Lewis, House of Fraser, Fenwick and Harrods. Nars is also part of Space.NK. apothecary boutiques.


The images below are from a new boutique opened in San Francisco in March 2015. Retail space is stark white with black accent similar to NARS packaging, The cash wrap is a lacquered red, recalling the iconic Jungle Red Nail Lacquer. Dark wood accents and full length mirrors make the space sleek and modern. Much like the simplicity of the packaging and logo this is mirror into the layer out and decor of the stores. This makes the woman shopping in Nars to feel like there shopping somewhere expensive, the clean sleek and minimalistic feel to the stores instantly creates the aesthetic of elegance and professional aspects when you walk in.




References:
Wikipedia, (2015). NARS Cosmetics. [online] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NARS_Cosmetics [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Baron-baron.com, (2015). Baron & Baron, Inc.. [online] Available at: http://www.baron-baron.com/flash/2/master.html [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Aviatorbytag.com, (2015). Viewpoint - The NARS Philosophy | Issue 09 | Journal | Aviator - Boutique hotel by TAG. [online] Available at: https://www.aviatorbytag.com/journal/issue-09_nars-special-edition/viewpoint_the-nars-philosophy [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Uk.spacenk.com, (2015). Space.NK.apothecary London ǀ Leading Luxury Beauty Boutique. [online] Available at: http://uk.spacenk.com/women/ [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Wetoldtwofriends.com, (2015). NARS opens new flagship boutique in San Francisco | We Told Two FriendsWe Told Two Friends. [online] Available at: http://www.wetoldtwofriends.com/?post_type=wttf_post&p=2508 [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Anon, (2015). 1st ed. [ebook] 2013. Available at: http://www.shiseidogroup.com/ir/library/annual/pdf/2013/anu00001.pdf [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Sephora, (2015). Allure Best of Beauty 2014 | Sephora. [online] Available at: http://www.sephora.com/allure-best-of-beauty [Accessed 29 Apr. 2015].
http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/news/a29295/cosmo-beauty-awards-2014-winners/

Images: 
Overton, M. (2015). Melissa S. Overton. [online] Melissasisonoverton.com. Available at: http://www.melissasisonoverton.com/gallery_nars.html [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Narscosmetics.com, (2015). NARS Orgasm Collection Essentials. [online] Available at: http://www.narscosmetics.com/USA/orgasm-collection-essentials [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].

Collaborations: MUA's,Brand Ambassadors.

Collaborations
Nars has previously collaborated with many other artists and designers bringing out exclusive collections inspired or created along side the designers.

Andy Warhol 2012 
François Nars, who moved to New York in the 80s and remembers feeling Warhol’s presence all around him. 
“I loved everything about Andy, from the films to the art to [the magazine] Interview ...Andy’s whole world,” (Anon, 2015)
He recalls. That lasting impression led to NARS Cosmetics's 2012, glittering endeavour  a limited-edition collection of makeup reminiscent of Warhol’s milieu and muses, created in collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts. 
Poppy eye shadow Pallet above is inspired by Andy Warhol's iconic Flowers painting (1965) and the same for the lip gloss tin and range making reference to the mettle soup can images of Warhol's.

“I was most inspired by the ‘factory’ part of Warhol’s world—all the iconic Andy Warhol superstars of the factory.”(Anon, 2015)
- Francois Nars 

Guy Bourdin 2013 
Nars was largely inspired by photographer Guy Bourdin from a young age finding his images in the pages of Vogue. Honouring Bourdin's legacy he created a Holiday 2013 collection created in the spirt of Guy using bold uncompromising colour and high impact finishes in shade that launch us into him high fashion world, The ad campaign images are Guy Boudin's fashion photography who's sexualy charged images broke boundaries in the fashion much like Nars he believed there were no bounderies.

One Night Stand Blush Pallet

 Crime of Passion Set
Beautiful Stranger Nail set
Christopher Kane 2015 
Recently announced collaboration with fashion designer Christopher Kane for May 2015 although not yet released the collection was used at Christopher's S/S 15 London Fashion Week show. The look was very natural and glowing.

"Nars has the same unapologetic aesthetic that is signature to the Christopher Kane brand and I'm excited to share what we've created together,"(Amey, 2015)
-Christopher Kane



Makeup Artists. 
All the MUA's, brand ambassadors that work with or for NARS have had a huge history with working in high fashion many working multiple times at Fashion weeks and advertisement's across the world for a huge array of designers and the top fashion houses. The ability and knowledge of working within fashion is the common link between the people chosen to represent NARS as a brand, they all share a natural creativity that links them to Francois in the idea that as a brand is experimetative, playful, colourful and there are no set rules. Therefore having a natural creativity is important when representing the brand.  

Andrew Gallimore- UK MUA & Ambassador



"I feel the role with Nars is a pretty good alignment of style and taste. Nars has no set rules, it is whatever makes you look your best that is encouraged - self-expression and creativity,"
-Andrew Gallimore 










James Boehmer- Director Global artistry 



'I devoured fashion magazines and followed this very glamorous world of designers, models, and image makers– it seemed so far away from the suburbs of St Louis, Missouri! François’ work was always my favorite and was so recognizable– I knew his work without checking the credit page. François was really the makeup artist that shaped the idea of the supermodel– and I was of course OBSESSED with them! His approach to makeup always had more reference, more wit, more style, and most importantly–more beauty. He never lost sight of the woman underneath the makeup and always accentuated the beauty of the skin. Knowing about François and his work made me feel like an insider'- James Boehmer 

As the director of global artistry James works very closely with Francois Nars, he understands that within makeup there are truly o boundaries or limits to what you can create or on what face sharing the same creative outlook as Francois. 

Uzo- International Lead Makeup artist 


'Uzo encouraging every woman to discover her own beauty and personal style.  Uzo’s understanding of François’ trademark style makes her an integral part of the NARS team, and her role as International Lead Makeup Stylist helps to communicate the essence of the brand and its underlying appreciation for beauty, individuality, creativity and style.'

Uzo’s artistry is featured on many celebrities, advertising campaigns, music videos, runway fashion shows and fashion editorial, continually representing the brand by communicating the philosophies and ideals that François Nars bestowed on the company at its inception. 


Val Garland- Using NARS 



Val Garland is an intentional fashion beauty makeup artist often working for the covers of Vogue she is often seen working with or for Nars cosmetics, having created many of the Nars looks for various runways shows across the world. Her Clean, precise and playful nature matches the brands. 

Lucia Pieroni- Using NARS 



Lucia work's with many of the top fashion houses, with a huge portfolio of names.

James Kaliardos- MUA Nars 


James Kaliardos has worked as the lead makeup artist at many of Nars runway shows for a huge range of designers. 

Jenny Smith- Lead MUA stylist USA 




Working many of the New York fashion week and the annual Marc Jacobs show by NARS she is the one in control of the looks for catwalk.

References:
Amey, K. (2015). Your Beauty Routine's About to Get Way Cooler. [online] Teenvogue.com. Available at: http://www.teenvogue.com/beauty/makeup/2014-09/nars-christopher-kane-collaboration [Accessed 23 Apr. 2015].
Anon, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.vanityfair.com/online/beauty/2012/11/Pop-Appeal-The-NARS-Andy-Warhol-Collection-Arrives [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Glam, (2015). Day in the Life of Beauty: Jenny Smith, NARS Lead Makeup Stylist. [online] Available at: http://www.glam.com/day-in-the-life-of-beauty-jenny-smith-nars-lead-makeup-stylist/ [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Mitchell, J. (2015). NARS Guy Bourdin Holiday Collection. [online] 1883 Magazine. Available at: http://www.1883magazine.com/beauty-features/beauty-features/nars-guy-bourdin-holiday-collection [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Vogue UK, (2015). Andrew Gallimore Named At Nars. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/01/19/andrew-gallimore-nars-uk-makeup-artist-ambassador [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2013/04/08/val-garland-make-up-artist-interview-kate-moss

Images: 
Anon, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.vanityfair.com/online/beauty/2012/11/Pop-Appeal-The-NARS-Andy-Warhol-Collection-Arrives [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Vogue UK, (2015). Andrew Gallimore Named At Nars. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/01/19/andrew-gallimore-nars-uk-makeup-artist-ambassador [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].
Glam, (2015). Day in the Life of Beauty: Jenny Smith, NARS Lead Makeup Stylist. [online] Available at: http://www.glam.com/day-in-the-life-of-beauty-jenny-smith-nars-lead-makeup-stylist/ [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].