Monday, 27 April 2015

Bibliography.

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Project Evaluation.

On reflection of this project 'Beauty and the Brand' i have been able to explore in depth the beauty and fashion industry, what makes a successful advertisement campaign using a brand in my case 'NARS' and how to portray the brand through an image in both makeup artistry and hair design through my research of Spring Summer 15 trends, the brands ethos aims for the consumer and finally developing my own technical skills to the high standers of the beauty world.

I felt that my initial research into NARS as a brand it to the 5 P's (Product; Packaging: Presentation and Promotion and Price Point.) and awareness of the Spring Summer trend reports has driven my design process. I feel that my abilities within beauty makeup and hair have improved through repetition and practice.  I have focused throughout this project on the level of my technical skills within both my practice shoots and my final images constantly being analytic of how i can improve and develop these.

I am pleased with my final set of images as a collection for NARS, i have enjoyed a different outlook on the design process than previously explored within character creation, a key point was understand NARS inside out and from here i was able to apply my own creative development from the basis of the ideologies formed by Francois Nars. I have been aware of the brand throughout this process and i feel that this shows within my final advertisement images.
I was most pleased with my Nails advertisement final shoot, this came through practice and re shooting having moved a long way from the start of the design process i quickly learnt and discovered new ideas this is why i feel this shoot was the most successful i had a clear idea what worked and what i wanted from the final images.
I further enjoyed the Spring/Summer15 shoot it was fun, playful and colorful a key element i look to when designing and a mutual passion of Francois Nars as well i was able to play with color from the start basing the look on a background i had a strong visual of how i wanted the advertisement to look. This is something i found created strong final images having a in depth and strong visual of how the final images should look before shooting was a key point of success.

Fall 2013- evening look
I found that the evening advertisement look was my least favorite look from the five final images. I felt that this was the look I found the ideas didn't come as naturally to me, I feel this is because NARS has already created such an iconic evening image (Fall 2013) that I found myself unknowingly referencing this image rather than creating original ideas. I thought that the makeup and hair was successful but I feel the overall composition, styling and lighting could be improved and re worked if I were to re shoot this again I would be a lot more creative with the shoot expressing the artistic side of NARS using the monochromatic ideas but in an interesting way such as variation of texture using satin in the styling on a gloss red background.


I feel throughout this project my technical abilities have strengthened, I have been able to understand the beauty industry in depth and finally feel confident with my organisational skills that I was able to produce and work on five different shoot at one time all to a high standard.

Tuesday, 21 April 2015

Brand Evaluation.

What attracted me to the brand NARS was the clear creativity and the strong versatility in looks that the brand portrays through their advertisement images which vary from a clean minimal look to strong performance style compositions. The main attraction for me was the recent advertisement campaign featuring Tilda Swinton which displayed individual creativity that is often over looked by other beauty brands. NARS is a brand created for professional use. The founder Francois Nars wanted to create a brand that could empower women to experiment and have fun with makeup creating a line that was practical, professional and a life style brand for the future.

The product packaging is simplistic yet luxurious. NARS believes that every woman that buys their products should have a true experience of NARS as a brand right from the box, to the compact or lipstick packaging. NARS packaging is a chic, modern, and classic. The semi matte texture of the packaging is there to be experienced by the consumer giving them a taste of luxury just as much as the product itself. The true purpose and quality of the products is known for its long lasting, highly pigmented and high standard quality cosmetic range.

NARS price points vary from the highest price of £60 for restorative night treatment face cream to the lowest price of a £16 lip liner pencil with an average price point of around £30. This is very reasonable within the cosmetic industry particularly in relation to the professional quality of the products and sets the brand in the mid to high point between low range beauty brands and higher end brands with an average price point of £45.

The promotional campaigns by NARS have been revolutionary as Francois the creative director and founder has always challenged and pushed the beauty industries notions of beauty. Being the first beauty brand to feature black models within their commercial advertisements, Francois is always looking to push the conventions of what society sees as beautiful. This in turn has created a brand with a huge consumer audience ranging from younger teenage girls right through to women in their 70’s allowing women of all ages and nationalities to feel empowered by makeup.

I was inspired by the vast and growing originality and unique feel of the brand. Its ability to relate to every women giving each a luxurious experience I found hard to portray within my final five advertisement images. The brand has so many faces; creative, simplistic, minimalist, playful, experimentative, chic that understanding how to approach each campaign needed to be well researched. I  began by exploring my own creative ideas and incorporated these into the Spring/Summer 15 trend reports. From here I then looked back to the brand and further looked at how I could encompass their ethos within my creative outlook. Along the process I found that I was so drawn to the brand creatively that I naturally understood and was able to portray their ideologies within my own creative outlook. I consequently feel that that the images i have created demonstrate my own ideas but fit the brand as a whole.

5 Final Advertisement Look's NARS

These are my 5 final look's for advertisements for the brand NARS. The makeup and hair in these final photographs have been developed from in depth research into the brand itself surrounding spring/summer 15 trends keeping all looks current for not only the customer of NARS a modern, colourful, confident, sexual and natural woman but for makeup, hair and nail trends that will be present in S/S15 campaigns within beauty industry. I feel the final campaign images are suited to NARS as Francois said he wanted to achieve 'mission to empower women to experiment and have fun with makeup by teaching them how to enhance their natural beauty and individual characteristics' I feel all of my final images are in keeping with this, they are look that empower the neutral beauty of every day women.

DAY  


HIGH SUMMER 


SPRING/SUMMER 15  


EVENING


NAILS (OTHER)



Friday, 27 February 2015

Assessment NARS Look

I have decided to create a runway inspired look for my timed assessment. Francois although not particularly being involved in runway or fashion since selling is company has always returned for good friend and designer Marc Jacobs shows. I have decided to look at Marc Jacobs recent catwalk collection as inspiration for this look. Although the hair and makeup was already envisioned in the way it was created for the show, created a rule breaking look done with completely no makeup at all, the look was created with NARS's skin care range. Hair was kept natural and structural within this shaggy bob style. I won't be taking any reference from the makeup or hair just looking at the collection as inspiration for my final look that i will create within my timed assesment.

The image below is the look created for the Marc Jacobs s/s15 ready to wear runway show, no makeup was used this was an iconic moment in fashion as although no makeup makeup is a huge statement to the spring summer runways Francois Nars took this literally by using completely no makeup at all. Although the face is fresh clean and minimalistic the shaggy dark box fridge adds interest to the overall look.

Marc Jacobs S/S15: Ready To Wear 

The collection has a clear military reference, the military greens, browns and navy blues , oversize buttons, lapels and belted jackets have a strong reference to military with a twist using luxurious materials such as high shine satins giving it a couture meets utilitarian approach. The colours within the collection is something i am instantly drawn to the earthy tones contrasted against the soft purple backdrop and runway captures me. The femininity within the silhouette of the collection i future want to touch on the pulled in waist and aline skirts creates a exaggerated of the hips giving a feminine shape.




I love the textures and colours within the accessories of this collection. The plum satin backpacks with the matt button contrast i love, Marc Jacobs plays with texture and colour off one another and intern creates unique and admirable garments and acessorise.


Makeup

I have created a mood board based on my initial reaction to how i would create this makeup look and When thinking about the kind of makeup i would create for this collection i look back at the images and was instantly drawn to the use of colour. The natural plums and greens reminded me of nature
an organic feel to the colours. NARS plays on colour i want to bring this idea within the final look, contrasting the green and plum colour palettes. Further i wanted to pick up on the textures used within the Marc Jacobs collection i love the matt buttons used on both the bags and jackets, i have looked at matt lips using this subtle diffused plum tone contrasting this with a fresh dewy skin texture mirroring the satin textures of the collection.


Face Charts 

I have created some initial face charts based on my mood board above, i wanted to create a matt look using the organic green Karachi tones within the eye look and a diffused plum lip tone. below i have used similar colour the first with a slightly lighters softer eye than the second.


I didn't feel that the shade i used was the correct colour i then started playing around with effects on the face chart image. Here i have been able to create more of the colour tones i would like to use within my timed assessment look, further compared to the collection images the colour tones mirror the ones in these images. 
Products: (Face Chart 1 & 2)
Complexion
-Moisturiser 
-Illamasqua illuminous primer 
-MAC face and body- C1
-MAC conceal and correct pallet/Light- NC15 & Pale yellow 
-Rimmel Wake me up Concealer 
-MAC Mineralize concealer- NC20 
Face 
-Illamasqua translucent powder 
-MAC pigment- Naked 
-Bare Minerals Luminizer- The Love Affair 
-Naked Neutrals Pallet- Venus 
-Dior Bronzer- 002 
-NARS blusher- Orgasm  
Brows 
-Sleek brow pallet 
-Rimmel gel fixer in dark 
Eyes: 
-MAC Omega
-Krolyan D10
-Naked 2 Palet- Pistol, Blackout
-Naked Basics- Faint, Crave
-MAC studio fix lash- Black
Lip: 
MAC- Diva & Heroine

Experiments 
I wanted to play with the colours i had used in my face charts as on the skin the tone of the colour is a lot different. I did think that on the face charts the green tone was not right and had more brown, golden tones in it were as when i applied the Kryolan D10 on my eye with a large blending brush i loved the colour and effect i achieved. To create the lip i mixed together MAC diva and heroine patting on my lip and using a translucent powder over the top to take out any shine. I think this is really effective both individually and with the texture and tone of the eye.


I then added over the top a darker shade of green to test the second face chart, i feel that it instantly took away the soft, matt feel of the Karachi eye tone as created above, the dark green creates a dense texture to the eye that i don't think is as effective.

Final Face Charts 

I have created a final chart based on my experimentation, again although the colour tones look very different this is due to the way they sit on paper compared to the skin. I have added the NARS orgasm blush the iconic shade is a perfect match to the plums of the lip. I want to keep the brows very natural adding a small amount of product to thicken the ends and brushed then out. (Brushed out brows have been a popular trend for S/S15 runway shows.) Contrasting the skin with the matt texture of the rest of the look i want to create a fresh, dewy feel to the skin using highlighters and a sheer finish foundation such as MAC face and body.

Products: 
Complexion
-Moisturiser 
-Illamasqua illuminous primer 
-MAC face and body- C1
-MAC conceal and correct pallet/Light- NC15 & Pale yellow 
-Rimmel Wake me up Concealer 
-MAC Mineralize concealer- NC20 
Face 
-Illamasqua translucent powder 
-MAC pigment- Naked 
-Bare Minerals Luminizer- The Love Affair 
-Naked Neutrals Pallet- Venus 
-Dior Bronzer- 002 
-NARS blusher- Orgasm  
Brows 
-Sleek brow pallet 
-Rimmel gel fixer in dark 
Eyes: 
-MAC Omega
-Krolyan D10
-Naked 2 Palet- Pistol, Blackout
-Naked Basics- Faint, Crave
-MAC studio fix lash- Black
Lip: 
MAC- Diva & Heroine

Instructions 
Step 1:Prep the face with a cleanse, tone and moisturiser  satin primer. Foundation mac face and body mixed with satin primer again buffed all over the face and chest. Concealer under the eye area and any areas that need more coverage, keeping the look dewy and light (very natural glow)

Step 2: Apply translucent powder over oily points (if any) use mac hightlighter over the high points of the face (brow bones, eyes, nose, cheek bones, top lip and temples) and again with the NAKED pallet in Venus. Contour to add depth with DIOR underneath the cheekbones and dusting onto the forehead- very natural tone.

Step 3: Apply Krolyan D10 all over the eye and buff in and out in the corners and crease apply NAKED faint to add definition and apply this also underneath the eye close to the lash line. Curl lashes apply mascara and then with NAKED crave and blackout line the top and bottom lid and fade out to add further definition.

Step 4: Brush brows up to give a natural shape and define softly with NAKED faint, apply brow gel to hold in place.

Step 5: Apply a mix of MAC Diva and Heroine patted gently onto the lip more dense in the center.

Step 6: apply NARS orgasm over the cheekbones to add a slightly gentle colour.

Hair 
Having been heavily inspired by Stella McCartney's runway hair combining a mix of textures again much like within my makeup look i wanted to take the idea of mixing sleek, smooth hair with more of an interest by adding texture or a plait to the style, in my board i have looked at types of plaits, twists and how adding a textural element into a classic style can transform the look. I have decided to look more to plaits as i future feel this goes with the military, S/S15 theme. The quick and wearable nature of plaits is interesting to play within creating styles that are the opposite. 


While looking through the fashion week images i found this image of Sofia Riche, i love the contrast in this style using the cornrow plaits in contrast with the sleek style of the rest of the look its a very similar look to the one i had envisioned. 

Hair Experiments
I wanted to experiment testing out the ideas i had so i could visualise what style worked with my initial ideas from my mood board, i have chose to create the interest of a deep side parted sleek straight down style, similarly to the image above. I have tested out a range of different plaits and variations giving me an idea of what works and what doesn't.

Dutch Braid: This style is very similar to the one pictured above the corn row style dutch braids, although this is effective in the image of Sofia i think there would have to be either more of the plaits or more chunkier plaits to make an impact. 
Knot Plait: A style lernt in class i love how effective it looks against the sleek style. 

French Plait into Fish Tail: I initially create a french plait finishing it off into a fish tail i like the two different types of plaits in one but would have to find a way to secure the end so i wouldn't distract from the sleek style.

Dutch into Five Braid Plait: Again testing out two different types of plaits in one style i prefer the effect of the dutch and think that the colour of the lighter 5 braid plaits is effective.

I feel that after my experiment ion i have a clear idea of what i want to achieve with the style i was a clear contrast but in keeping with the slick style of the rest of the hair. The knot plait i feel was the most effective the raised element within this plait is what i feel works within the style, it elevates its self almost above the sleek style creating depth to the look. Further more this style is easier to tuck under than the plaits into other plaits as with the knot braid i can easterly tie it off with a band blending it into the style.

Hair Chart 
This is my final hair chart created from my experimentation images, i want a sleek smooth and elegant style contrasted with the raised knot plait with more of a contrasting messier texture. I want the knot plait to be obviously textured, with this plait the hair naturally creates this texture i want to exaggerate the messiness to create more of a contrast between the plait and sleek style.

Equipment: 
Hair dryer
Straighteners
Clear elastic Bands
Pins- blonde
bun pins- blonde
pin tail comb
penman brush
paddle brush
soft brush

Products: 
Serum
Shine Spray
Mouse
Hair spray
Dry shampoo

Instructions 
Preparation: 
Wash and roughly dry hair till 10% of water is left, apply serum and in small sections starting from the bottom using the paddle brush and hair dryer with nossel pointing down blow dry there hair flat in correct deep side parting. When completely dry run over hair with straighteners.

Assessment: 
Section hair from behind the ear to the crown line and clip the rest out of the way being careful not to disrupt the sleek style already created. Knot plait (take section split into two and knot repeat again on next knot take section before and knot in and repeat) this using small sections and pulling tight to the head apply dry shampoo if hair is too silky when reach the back of the ear tie of with a clear elastic band.
Using mouse on a thin tooth brush comb back and down behind each ear sleek and tight to the head and again at the back- finish off with hair spray and perfect fly aways and ends.

Final Images 
Assessment images.
I was very please with the overall outcome of the look. I felt that the combination in texture and colour is very representative of NARS yet explored through my design process fits with the Marc Jacobs S/S15 runway show. I felt that my timed assessment went well i didn't use all the time given as it was quite a simple look to create this meant i had time to go back over and really perfect the look. 
My favourite element of the look was the hair i thought that it was simple yet very effective the knot plait worked well and combined the varying texture that i wanted between the sleek style. 
The eyes and lip within the makeup look were susses full, i liked the way the neutral skin texture gave a fresh feel to the matt features giving it a youthful feel. 
I feel that i have approached my timed assessment with a fresh outlook as i was able to give myself my own breif in terms of what look i would create.  I was able to take referance from Marc Jacobs collection using this as my key inspiration point, by developing this i was able to go on  my own creative design process while keeping NARS's ethos and aims in mind. I created a finished look that was runway appropriate yet portrays NARS as a brand through the use of colour, luxury elegant feel of the hair and enhancement of natural strong beauty.





Further Images 
I decided to take some more images in the studio front of the natural day light i found that this gave me better lighting for the makeup and i was able to take some more images that captured this. I have also played around with positioning of the model and composition more.





References/Image References: 
Vogue UK, (2015). Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2015 Ready-To-Wear. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs [Accessed 23 Apr. 2015].
Vogue UK, (2015). Not used. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/marc-jacobs [Accessed 23 Apr. 2015].
Uk.pinterest.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/assessment-nars/ [Accessed 23 Apr. 2015].